If you are a surfer you will often take to the waters, so understanding the terminology and environment associated with surfing is important. At first glance surfing may not seem dangerous.
However, the ocean is a dangerous place to be in general, and the water is much more powerful than it may seem to be.
So, being careful and knowing as much as you can about it could perhaps one day save your life!
Thus, today, we will talk about what a swell is in surfing.
To start, let’s talk about what a swell is, and how to define a swell.
Defining A ‘Swell’
Surfing is one of the most popular water sports around the globe. The sport involves riding waves using a surfboard.
A swell is a wave that has formed from wind blowing over a body of water. When the wind blows across the surface of the ocean, it creates waves. These waves move away from the direction of the wind.
A wave is a disturbance on the surface of a fluid or solid. Waves are caused by disturbances in the medium through which they travel.
The term “swell” can also refer to a large mass of water moving toward shore. This is called a storm surge and may be accompanied by high winds and heavy rain.
A storm surge is not necessarily associated with a particular wind direction.
Swell is the name given to the combination of two waves meeting at right angles. In this case, the crest of one wave meets the trough of another wave.
Swells are often referred to as sets when they occur more than once during an event. For example, if you ride a set of three waves, then there are three waves that meet at right angles.
Swell is the opposite of chop. If you look out into the ocean, you will see swells coming ashore. They are usually smaller than the waves that form offshore.
Swelling occurs when the wind blows across the top of the sea. It causes the water to rise up and become agitated.
So, knowing this, what is a wave well?
Swell waves will have the characteristics of standard movement with a slight increase.
Yet, conditions can be variable depending on the climate, this is especially true with wind, and how the wind influences the swells’ approach to the coast.
The most important thing for many people who love to surf is the direction in which the swell and wave approaches at entry.
Each beach will have its own unique orientation and therefore, there will also be factors that define the way the waves behave.
Note, it is also not uncommon for the type of beach to influence the waves. A sandy beach and a pebble beach will interact with the saves differently.
A beach in a cove will have differently behaving waters than a more open beach.
There are also two movements that will define the type of wave that is created.
Firstly, there is a circular movement. These movements are movements that the waves make. It is the oscillation of the climate when it is moved by said wave.
Then there is the speed of the wave. Energy that is given will determine how the wave moves. Consider tropical storms, hurricanes, and even horrific events such as earthquakes that trigger tsunamis and such.
It is not unknown to see surfers running with their boards seeking out the opportune moment to ride a wave and live to the maximum, full of emotion and adrenaline, what is provided by the experience on the waters.
Swells Vs Ripples And Waves
After all this you might find yourself asking what the actual difference is between a wave, a ripple, and a swell.
Well, there is a lot of confusion about this, and it is not surprising, unless you are a veteran in this field there can be no real knowing.
Let’s educate you.
A swell is a group of waves which have all gathered a significant enough amount of energy from winds to reach a further stage of wave maturity, allowing them to travel a great deal further than their place of creation.
They can pass through and under each other, sometimes more than one swell, absorbing the others in their way, which can cultivate a more organized and better defined swell.
A simple ripple cannot travel thousands of miles without a strong wind behind it for a great deal of time, swells are different in this regard.
Waves also do not ride a-top each other for significant periods of time.
In a technical way, they are observed and defined as such;
- A ripple is a wave with a period between each crest lasting up to a second.
- A wave is an undulation that has a period between each crest that can last between 1 second or 10.
- A swell is a collective of waves that have a period of cresting above 10 seconds.
Swells From Tropical Storms
Swells can also develop from tropical storms too. Hurricanes, typhoons, and cyclones are all capable of generating swells.
Tropical storms form when there is a contrast in temperature between the air and ocean that is extremely significant. The swells they produce are slow-moving and seasonal, they also produce a rather significant amount of waves too.
You may ask yourself why you should know this? Well, when you are out on the water, in a boat, on a board, or otherwise, it is always wise to understand the waters and what causes the formations.
Seas are dangerous places, but understanding them can help us to avoid dangerous situations, and know when to just leave our surf for another day.
Swells can travel a great distance in comparison to waves and ripples, and therefore can make for great surfing experiences.
You could argue that a swell is a form of wave, but this is not true, not technically. A swell is actually very different to a wave!